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Glacier and Mountaineering Training!
I have discussed with Rainier Mountaineering
Inc. on providing a training class focusing on
mountaineering skills including glacier travel, self-arrest,
rope handling and crampon usage. I like the fact that we can
train as a group and in our respective rope teams. Please
check out the
training page here.
It is important that everyone responds through the
training form
so I may respond the RMI in a timely fashion.
Glacier Glasses
The need for Glacier Glasses is one of the
many requirements to ascend up any glaciated mountain. The
brightness is unbelievable while on the glacier. Your eyes will
have problems with snow-blindness if you do not have
protection. Common sunglasses are useless. I bought glacier
glasses and they look more like welding goggles than
sunglasses.
Look for glasses that have leather side
shields and a leather or other material nose shield. I use
prescription lenses, but it is quite acceptable to wear
contacts and use standard glacier glasses. Polarized is very
helpful due to the amount of reflection that comes off the
glaciers during the day.
I recommend
REI Karakorum Glacier
Glasses for cost and functionality.
An accessory for the glasses which
protects your nose can be found at most mountaineering
supply stores. These are triangular shaped leather clip-on
patches that cover your nose.
Ice Axe
Not everyone has one, but we need one.
There have been many questions regarding models, costs and
the uncertainties of using one. For years I used an el'cheapo Grivel model which was all I could afford starting
out. In reality it worked quite well for most application
including Mount Rainier. I replaced it only after I
descended the mash potatoes glacier on Mount Hood in 1998.
The Grivel has a pick length approximately
5 inches. The glacier had a soft top greater than that which
meant a self-arrest became very difficult if not impossible
to perform correctly. I have since bought a Charlet-Moser
that has a 7 inch pick and I feel much better knowing I can
dig in that much further. It should be noted that this
Charlet-Moser model is ridiculously expensive ($150). When I
bought it. I was feeling like a kid in a candy store and "I
had to have it".
Another factor in buying an ice axe is the
length. You do not climb high with poles, your ice axe
becomes you primary "walking stick". I like a longer ice axe
such as a 70 or 75 cm. Remember most of the handle will sink
into the glacier before it stabilizes and makes a useful
walking stick.
I would recommend the
Black Diamond Raven
due to its pick length and handle length. Do not forget to
add the
Head Guard
and
Spike Guard
for protection and the
leash for
preventing the ice axe from slipping away.
Lodging
I am working on making a special group
pricing with
Whittaker's Bunkhouse
in Ashford outside the park. I have stayed here on several
occasions and it is quite comfortable. The Bunkhouse has
private and shared facilities. Rates range from $80 for
private to $30 for the shared bunkhouse.
In Ashford, Whittaker's is the ONLY place.
There are some small motels, but I considered them roach
hotels and I would not recommend them. It is my plan to
report back to everyone by the next Newsletter on any
"special Price" accommodations I might be able to arrange.
Within the National Park, there are two
Inns available:
National Park Inn
Paradise Inn
These can be booked now, however, if we
want to stay together as a group it might be difficult with
the half hour or more distance between us.
Transportation
Getting to Seattle, you are on your own. I
would suggest that you consider arriving near noon which
will allows us to car pool. Once everyone submits their travel plans to
me, I will assign car pools and ask that one person in that pool
contact a rental agency to obtain a car. Based on personal
experience, three to a car is tight. Four to a mini-van
should be the limit.
Timetables
I posted a preliminary trip timetable in
the Upcoming Event page. This is subject to change if we
elect to take the RMI course listed above. Should that
course be approved, we will slip the timetable one day.
Remember, the RMI course is best suited for us if we all go
as a group.
Next Newsletter
The next Newsletter will discuss equipment
and team assignments. I am just happy to get this first one
out and therefore I have not dedicated enough time to
discuss other topics. If you want specific questions
answered, please email to me those questions and I will
include them in the next Newsletter.
On-Line Store
I am attempting to setup with REI an
affiliate program which will allow me to advertise REI on
this site. That would be the only advertisement I would
accept. If they approve my application, I would get a small
fee for every order placed through this site. It is one way
to help fund the site expansion. I'll keep you informed if,
and when this become available.
Ed
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