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Mount Hood
It is being reported that conditions on Mount
Hood are warming up faster than in previous years. The March
12th
Climbing Conditions
reported conditions similar to what you would normally
expect in June! With unseasonably warm days, the bergschrund
above the hogsback is already opening up.
Another concern is that incidents of rock
and ice fall hazard is already being reported. These
conditions are exacerbated by the heat of the day. I have
seen these conditions on my previous two climbs. I am not
too concerned, as long as you have an awareness of your
surroundings. When you are above the hogsback, it is common
to see and hear the rock and ice fall occur. If it gets to
aggressive, we will probably not want to ascend beyond the
hogsback.
I will monitor it daily to help keep
everyone informed. As a backup, I will plan on an
alternative mountain, such as Mount Baker, Mount Adams, or
if it is still playing nice, Mount St. Helens. I anyone has
a request for another site, please let me know and I will
research it. A final decision does not have to be made
almost until we get there.
Update on Mount Rainier Permits
On Tuesday March 15th, I will fax our
application to the Mount Rainier National Park. The
application is for three nights at Camp Muir starting on
August 1st. On the application, I have provided a credit
card number to pay the $380 fee.
Time Line Survey
There has been some discussions to review
the trip timeline. A change that has been made to the
original timeline was made to allow a day for RMI training.
This day was originally scheduled as a day of training while
in Camp Muir. The chart below shows the differences:
|
Summary |
Original |
Revised |
|
Arrive in Seattle, travel to Ashford |
July 30 |
July 30 |
|
RMI Training Course |
|
July 31 |
|
Leave for Camp Muir |
July 31 |
August 1 |
|
Rest / Training at Camp Muir |
August 1 |
|
|
Summit Day and return to Paradise |
August 2 |
August 2 |
|
Travel to Mount Hood |
August 3 |
August 3 |
|
Summit Day, Mount Hood |
August 4 |
August 4 |
|
Travel / Tour Seattle |
August 5 |
August 5 |
|
Return Flights |
August 6 |
August 6 |
The main difference between the two
schedules involves summit day for Mount Rainier. In the
current timeline, we arrive into Camp Muir on August 1st and
we will then have to crash early and rise just after
midnight for the summit bid.
Although I have done this before, it does
have the characteristics of a rushed trip. If we want to add
a day in at Camp Muir, we could push back the summit day and
slide the whole schedule back one day. I am cautious in
making this suggestion. If we have any issues on August 2nd,
such as weather, we still have one day available to use. If
we plan on using that extra day, then we jeopardize Mount
Hood.
I would like everyone's opinion allowing
us to make a group decision. Please send me your thoughts
and I will tabulate them and report back to you. My opinion
is to leave the revised schedule as-is which allows us to
have one day available if needed.
The distance from the parking lot to Camp
Muir is 4.5 miles, of which 2.2 is on the Muir Snowfield.
Total elevation gain is 4,600 feet. Although this is not a
great distance, it is a haul of constant ascent. Each of us
will handle this route differently. Take this information
into account when making your timeline recommendations.
Next
Newsletter
Volume 6, I hope will focus on rope techniques
which I originally wanted to do earlier, but planning events
keep getting in the way - sorry. I have written most of the
Z-Pulley pages, but I need to check some details out to
ensure accuracy.
Ed
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