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Rainier Express

Volume 1, Number 7
March 30, 2005

Hello Team!

In this issue:

  • Travel Information
  • The Route
  • Tips on Training
  • Tips on the Muir Snowfield
  • Next Newsletter

Ed

Travel Information

Due to the added security that has been placed upon flying, I am asking that everyone traveling with a stove to contact their airline and find out any limitations or restrictions. I have recently heard (unconfirmed) stories where airline carriers were not allowing the transport of backpacking stoves. None of us wishes to show up on the day of departure and find out the hard way.

The Route

The route we will take up on Mt. Rainier is mostly a single grade no greater than 35° and fairly smooth. There are two areas that we will do some rock scrambling. These are Cathedral Gap and Disappointment Cleaver.

Depending on snow conditions, crossing the Cathedral Gap will put you on a ridge that must be traversed. This ridge is mostly scree and joins with the Ingraham Glacier and Flats. This area is 1,000 feet higher than Camp Muir.

We will continue on the glacier to the base of the DC. The DC is a cleaver consisting of crumbling rock and scree. We will ascend the DC through a series of wandering trails. The total height of the DC is 300 feet. There is a large flat area which offers safe and comfortable rest spots.

Once over the DC, we will step onto the Ingraham or Emmons Glacier depending on the preferred route. These glaciers will take you to the summit through a series of switchbacks to the crater rim. Once we cross the rim, the true summit is about a 30 to 45 minute walk across the snow plug in the crater. We generally un-rope while in the crater and do some exploring of the various caves and steam opening.

Descending the route must be done quickly and safely. As you know, most accidents happen on the descent. The late morning and afternoon sun weakens any snow bridges and causes the glacier surface to sun-cap or turn to mash potatoes. The effect of the sun also weakens the surrounding rock walls and the rock-fall hazard increases.

Tips on Training

I have started my routine I use to prepare for the upcoming climbs on Rainier and Hood. Unlike what we see in the Northeast where the trails are rocky with varying grades, Mount Rainier is mostly smooth and unrelenting.

Besides getting out to hike and climb as much as you can, I like to add in mid week routines to build the legs and lungs. This is done using a set of stairs available to me in the Niagara Gorge Park. There are 372 steps consisting of varying rocks that have shifted over the years. The steps cover a elevation change of 275 feet. I go down and up repeatedly with no more than a 30 second rest period at the ends.

By doing several sets, the legs and lungs condition themselves for extended usage. Tonight I did three sets (1116 steps). On more serious days I'll do 6 complete sets. I'll do these three times per week between now and late July. On weekend that I don't climb, I'll try to get one session of ten sets.

Which is all fine for me, however, many of you do not have a convenient set of long steps six minutes from your house. I suggest taking long hikes of five miles or more with a medium to heavy pack. Vary the weight of the pack between sessions to reduce knee strains. The distance from Paradise to Camp Muir is just under five miles and is a constant grade approximately 15° to 20°.

Pay close attention to building your calves for strength and endurance. I use a seated calf machine with weight between 300-500 pounds. Being on a constant grade uphill, your calves call out with a burning sensation. They get picked on allot, the boots, which do not flex, the uphill grade and the soft snow pack take their vengeance out on your calves.

Tips on the Muir Snowfield

The first time I stepped onto the Muir Snowfield it was the first week of August 1998. It was a hot and sunny day. I traveled in a t-shirt and shorts with no gaiters. What you don't always understand is that the snow pack reflects the sun upward and you burn in areas you never would expect. Also the intensity increase rapidly as you ascend. I was burnt so bad it was difficult to even lay down and sleep. Now I cover up in SPF45 lotion and wear my hat which has a flap to cover the ears and neck.

Next Newsletter

I really don't know why I try to detail the next Newsletter, I normally deviate from my plan. However, I want to assemble my pack and weigh it to use as a bench mark everyone can use. I plan on traveling very light this trip. I have replaced some equipment with recent purchases designed to reduce weight. It is my hopes to be under 40 pounds including the rope and water.

If you would like a topic discussed, send me a email and I will research your request and include it into a future newsletter.

Ed

 

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