120x240 Climb
To learn more about REI, click here
 
 

Rainier Express

Volume 1, Number 8
April 25, 2005

Hello Team!

In this issue:

  • A Very Busy April
  • Pack Weight
  • Mount Rainier Conditions
  • Climbing Permits
  • Poll Results

Ed

A Very Busy April

I feel like I have been ignoring everyone this past month. April found me traveling too much and working too much to allow me the time to update the newsletters. With traveling comes added caloric intake and now I must get back into a workout schedule to burn off the extra pounds!

Pack Weight

Finally my pack has been assembled with the expected equipment, food and accessories which I will take to Mount Rainier. The weight comes in around 35-37 pounds! This is the lowest weight pack I ever took up to Camp Muir. There is a simple formula to reducing the weight:

Lowest weight = highest cost.

Over the years my equipment purchases were based on the lowest weight and durability that my budget would allow. I have been lucky in that area where I was able to replace much of my equipment with fast-n-light products and distribute the cost over the years.

Take for example the shelter. I’ll be bringing a Bibler I-Tent with vestibule, which weighs in just over 4 pounds for the tent and 1 pound for the vestibule. That was only possible if you are willing to shell out $650. Add in a titanium cook set, cost $90. You get the idea. This weight included community gear that should be distributed with your assigned team. I my case, Carol and I will split gear between us, hopefully to reduce total weight for both of us.

This weight does not include any luxury items. For example, I like to carry some wine, smoked Salmon and crackers. That alone will add 3 – 4 pounds. Here is my list of items on me, and in my pack:

Backpack (Waterproof)
Goose Down vest
Shell Jacket
Shell Pants
Base Layer Shirt (2)
Base Layer Pant
Windstopper Top
Windstopper Gloves
SmartWool Socks - Hikers (2)
Double Plastic Boots
2 Ball Caps (1-GorTex, 1-sun protection)
Gaiters
Ice Axe with Leash
Crampons, 12 pointers
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Lip Protection
Hiking Poles
One Liter Water Bottles (2)
Nalgene collapsible canteen, 1-gallon
Garbage Bag
Headlamp with extra batteries (Lithium batteries work best)
Compass
Altimeter
Titanium Spoon
Personal Articles including toilet paper
Sleeping Bag
Sleeping Pad (3/4 Ultra-lite & 18 inch foam pad
Camera
Harness
6-Carabiners (4-Ovals, 2-lockable)
L-R Ascenders
Helmet
Spectra Runners (1-30 cm, 1-60 cm)
48" Runnner

One stove with Wind Shield*
Two titanium pots*
Titanium Fuel container*
Lighters
Gallon Zip-Lock Bags (6)
Medical Kit (small ultra-lite)*
Pump Style Water Filter
Small shovel (clean for digging snow for melting)
Tent / Vestibule* / Ground Cloth / Stakes*
50m Rope
Pulleys (2)
Snow Pickets (3)*
Figure 8
Spare Headlamp (Black Diamond Moonlight)

Note: I did not include the weight of the items I'll be wearing. These include the boots and poles. The asterisk items can be shared with other team members.

Mount Rainier Conditions

Mount Rainier has seen a new base of over 5 feet of fresh fallen snow over the past few weeks. This is excellent news! I talked to the head ranger at Paradise and he indicated the climbing conditions are almost back to normal. This new layer will consolidate and allow new routes up to Camp Muir and on to the summit.

Climbing Permits

I have received the twelve climbing permits covering August 1 - 5. The paperwork I received is the confirmation letter and individual cards. We must pickup our actual climbing permits no sooner than one day prior, or on the same day we leave for Camp Muir.

I will be there one week before the group is scheduled to start the climb. I'll check into changing one climbing permit to allow Bruce to leave on July 31st. When I talked to the ranger, he indicated we can do this upon arrival. There is no added change to make the single day change.

Poll Results

In response to the poll taken on using an extra day and possibly moving from Camp Muir to Ingaham Flats, it was decided to make the final determination once we are at Camp Muir. It was discussed that by moving to the Flats, we can get a two hour jump on summit day and increase our chances. We will review these options while we are in Camp Muir.

Ed

 

HPC HOME | SITE MAP | PHOTO GALLERY | NEWS | CONTACT US | UPCOMING EVENTS | HISTORY | ROUTE PLANNING | LINKS | ADIRONDACKS