Climbing Gear
Locking Carabiner
Petzl William Ball Auto-locking Petzl Attache HMS Locking
Non-Locking Carabiner
Black Diamond Oval Black Diamond Hotwire
Hardware and Protection
Petzl Ascension Ascenders Petzl Tibloc Ascender
Petzl Oscillante Pulley Petzl Fixe Pulley
MSR Coyote Snow Picket Black Diamond Super 8 Belay/Rappel Device
Rope, Climbing Aids and Accessories
Mammut Revelation 9.2 x 60m Dry Rope Maxim Leavittator 9.8 x 60m Dry Rope
Black Diamond Five-Step Etrier Black Diamond 12mm Spectra Runner
Mammut Dyneema Contact Sling  
Harnesses and Helmets
Black Diamond Alpine Bod Harness Black Diamond Bod Harness
Petzl Elios Class Helmet  
Snow and Ice Travel
Grivel G-12 New-Matic Crampons Grivel Air Tech Light Crampon
Grivel G10 Crampons Black Diamond Raven Ice Axe
Life-Link Avalanche Probe MSR Lightening Ascent Snowshoes
Tubbs Altitude Series Snowshoes REI Redpoint Ice Axe Leash
Trekking Poles
Leki Super Makalu Ergo Anti-Shock Leki Ultralite Ti Ergometric
Headlamps
Black Diamond Vectra IQ Hybrid Black Diamond Zenix LED Headlamp
Black Diamond Ion LED Headlamp  
Safety and Accessories
Labiosan Leather Nose Shield
Adventure Essentials Medical Kit Mountaineering : The Freedom of the Hills
Navigation Aides and Accessories
Garmin eTrex Vista GPS Motorola Iridium Satellite Phone
Suunto M-2D Locator Compass Avocet Vertech
Highgear AltiTech Highgear Summit
   
Locking Carabiner

Petzl William Ball Auto-locking Carabiner

Auto locking gate works with one hand. Gate automatically locks when closed.

Petzl Attache HMS Locking Carabiner

An excellent choice when needing to tie-in with the security of a twist ring to lock the gate from opening. Used on your harness in glacier travel.

 

Non-Locking Carabiner

Black Diamond Oval Carabiner

Great general purpose biner for your pack. On expeditions I carry 4 for use in rescue systems such as the "Z-Pulley" configuration.

 88x31 REI Logo
Item 471041

Black Diamond Hotwire Carabiner

One of the lightest biners without compromising safety. Works well on big walls. Do not use when side loads can be experienced. Not for use attached to harnesses or on glacier travel.

Hardware and Protection

Petzl Ascension Ascenders

Lightweight and versatile ascender for mountaineering. Clips to the rope using one hand operation. Used for self-extraction on rope teams. Purchase in Left and Right hand configurations. Replaces Prusik method. Each ascender weighs 196 grams (6.91 ounces).

Petzl Tibloc Ascenders

Ultra Lightweight ascenders. Ideal for those desiring the safety and ease of a ascender while reducing pack weight. Each ascender weighs just 39 grams (1.37 ounces). Can be used in pulley systems. Only biners with a uniform round cross section should be used. The Black Diamond Oval Carabiner, item #471041 works well. Using these ascenders requires plenty of practice!

88x31 REI Logo
Item 644068

Petzl Fixe Pulley

Used with Ascenders for rescue and gear hauling.

 88x31 REI Logo
Item 635119

Petzl Oscillante Pulley

A lightweight pulley intended for self rescue. Easily attaches to a rope utilizing pivoting sides.

Black Diamond Super 8 Belay/Rappel Device

Designed with Belaying in mind. Used in rescue operations.

 88x31 REI Logo
Item 471098

MSR Coyote Snow Picket

Extra strong aircraft grade, heat-treated aluminum. T-shaped for strength and attach points over the entire length. I use 24 inch models.

 88x31 REI Logo
Item 474241

Rope, Climbing Aids and Accessories

Mammut Revelation 9.2 x 60m Dry Rope

Ideal for glacier travel offering high abrasive resistance at a lower weight. The surface is coated with Teflon® enhance finish.

Maxim Leavittator 9.8 x 60m Dry Rope

Smaller diameter and cost helps to lighten your load. Ideal for glacier travel. Standard Fluoropolymer dry treatment. This rope does not have a abrasion resistant coating found in the Mammut listed above.

Black Diamond Five-Step Etrier

Durable ladder step made form 9/16" webbing. Used for self-rescue when using prussic or ascenders and not using runners. Optional.

 88x31 REI Logo
Item 474077

Black Diamond 12mm Spectra Runner

Ideal for rescue in conjunction with ascenders when performing self-ascents.
Recommend : 1 - 30cm,  2 - 60cm.

.

Mammut Dyneema Contact Sling

Used for providing attachment to anchors and pickets. Requires one 48".

 88x31 REI Logo
Item 709160

 
   
Harnesses and Helmets

Black Diamond Alpine Bod Harness

Ideal for light weight, fast alpine ascents. This is a no frills harness priced for all budgets.

 88x31 REI Logo
Item 699550

Black Diamond Bod Harness

Ideal for comfort all day on the big walls. Well padded and plenty of attachment loops. Offers quick release leg buckles for easy entry / exit.

Petzl Elios Class Helmet

An excellent model for the ascent. When you select a helmet, make sure it has head lamp clips.

 88x31 REI Logo
Item 751716

Snow and Ice Travel

Grivel G-12 New-Matic Crampons
with Antibott Device

Best all around glacier and mixed climbing crampons. Must be used with crampon compatible boots.

Grivel Air Tech Light Crampon
with Antibott Device

Classic 10 point configuration with a twist. One pair of points bi-angular to provide additional bite when descending or traversing sideways, such as a French Step. Fit all style boots. I have used these on Mount Hood and Mount Rainier. The light weight is really appreciated and they have a good bite for safety.

Grivel G10 Crampons

These were my first crampons for mountaineering. Very durable and adapts to any boot size and shape. Excellent for general mountaineering.

 

Black Diamond Raven Ice Axe

The longer pick is ideal for soft or hard glacier and snow fields surfaces.

Life-Link Avalanche Probe

Low cost, light and fast setup. This avalanche probe provides a self-locking tension system. Made from 7075 Aluminum. Meets the minimum requirement for a probe when extended to it's full length of 6 feet!

MSR Lightening Ascent

After I broke my long term Tubbs Snowshoes, I decided to try the MSR brand again. My first try was the with the Denali Ascent, which I took back after one trip. That is another story. The Lightening Ascent are a class above the other snowshoes I already own.

To accommodate different trail conditions, I bought the 25" and 22" versions. This year (2008) winter season, I used the 22" almost exclusively and I was very impressed. The only negative comment I can make is the binding system is a a little to elastic when side hilling and your foot rolls too much. Otherwise I have been very impressed.

Tubbs Altitude Snowshoes

I use the 25" and 30" models depending on snow conditions. This model has the T91 bonding system which I feel is superior to the Bear Hug™ system now found on the Altitude series. The T91 system can still be found at Campmor and other internet stores.

To enhance this snowshoe, contact Tubbs Customer Service at info@tubbssnowshoes.com or 1-(800) 882-2748 and order a replacement set of Viper steel teeth to replace the original teeth on the Altitude Series.

REI Redpoint Ice Axe Leash

Low cost leash for your ice axe.

Trekking Poles

Leki Super Makalu Ergo SLS Trekking Poles

These poles will take the punishment. One of the best pieces of gear I ever bought.

Gear Review

The Leki Super Makalu is the second pair if Trekking Poles I've owned. The first pair was EMS branded and they lasted less than one year! I understand companies that sell gear offer great warranties and will replace or repair broken gear without question. But my EMS poles broke on Mount Rainier! Where was I going to get them fixed up there!

Fortunately one of my team members on Mount Rainier that trip worked at a local EMS store and he told me to bring them back. He showed me the Leki Super Makalu and I traded up. That was in August of 1998 and I am still using the same pair. I have been rough on these poles and they last!

Leki Ultralite Ti Ergometric Trekking Poles

These poles weigh in at 15.8 ounces. The "Ti" in the name makes you believe there is a titanium component to these poles, however, there is none. Leki plays on the "Ti" symbol from the Periodic Table and it is very misleading, see Gear Review below.

Gear Review

The Leki Ultralite Ti Ergometric poles offer excellent weight to performance at just 15.8 ounces per pair. The grips are a soft rubber over cork construction. The shafts are made of anodized aluminum. I like the overall design of these poles, excluding the locking system.

I am very disappointed in the SLS Locking System. During climbs I must tighten the poles every few minutes. I bought them at at REI-Outlet.com for a very discounted price. I still use them as I like to reduced weight. But I can not recommend them.

Headlamps

Black Diamond Vectra IQ Hybrid

Outstanding performance! This headlamp contains four SuperBright LEDS for general use plus a Xenon bulb to reach out up to 100 meters! The bezel can be adjusted to focus your beam. The headlamp is powered by 4-AA batteries.

 

Gear Review

Over these past few years, there has been a great jump in headlamp technology. The Black Diamond Vectra IQ is one of those headlamps that provides excellent distance and subtle lighting when needed.

Pros:
Several power settings to adjust your light output between a SuperBright LEDs or the Xenon lamp.

User friendly switching system. With 8 modes of operation to choose from, this new switching system does not require you to cycle through them to turn on and off.

Plenty of light that will focus out to near 100 meters. I found this comforting when traversing a glacier, or checking for flying rocks from surrounding walls.

In low power modes, you have plenty of light for trails or base camp needs.

Behind the lamps reflective shield there are two positions available where a spare bulbs can be stored. One spare bulb comes with the unit.

I like the IQ technology which monitors the conditions of the batteries. There is a early warning system where the headlamp will flash once when batteries will soon be in need of replacement.

Cons:
There is a small access screw that holds the battery door cover, I found it not glove friendly when dealing with battery replacement in extreme cold environments.

The headlamp is better suited for helmet use due to the size of the battery compartment which hold 4-AA batteries.

Summary:
When I am in need of a wide array of adjustable lighting, this headlamp is a great choice.

Technical Details

Configuration:
4-AA Batteries.
Adjustable LED power settings ranging from 110 to 300 hours.
Adjustable Xenon power settings ranging from 3 to 14 hours.
Weight : 8.9 ounces with batteries.

Black Diamond Zenix LED Headlamp

What I like the most about this headlamp is the focused beam which throws light well ahead of you. This is important in glacier travel to see what is ahead of you.

 

Gear Review

This is my all around headlamp. It gets the most use of any headlamp in my gear locker. Great power saving features, plus a focused beam when using the HyperBright LED.

Pros:
Several power settings to adjust your light output between a SuperBright LEDs or the HyperBright LED.

Plenty of light focus out to over 30 meters. I found this perfect when on wooded trails.

In low power modes, you have plenty of light for trails or base camp needs.

This headlamp works well with or without a helmet.

Cons:
There is a small access screw that holds the battery door cover, I found it not glove friendly when dealing with battery replacement in extreme cold environments.

The switching system cycles through the SuperBright to HyperBright modes every time you want to turn it on and return to the previous setting.

Technical Details

Configuration:
3-AAA Batteries.
Adjustable SuperBright LED power settings ranging from 25 to 70 hours.
Adjustable HyperBright LED power settings ranging from 4.5 to 22 hours.
Weight : 5.7 ounces with batteries.

Black Diamond Ion LED Headlamp

Does a headlamp that weighs 1.1 ounces sound great? This is the perfect headlamp as a backup or just hanging around camp. I always carry an Ion to ensure I have two or more headlamps in my travels. The battery lasts about 2+ hours in summer, about 1 hour in winter.

Safety and Accessories

Labiosan

THE protection for your lips. A zinc Oxide based protection for your lips and nose.

Available directly from Labiosan

Leather Nose Shield

Your nose is out there and the sun will find it. A leather nose shield will save you great discomfort. They sell these at REI and other mountaineering stores.

Adventure Essentials Medical Kit

Basic medical support.

Mountaineering : The Freedom of the Hills

If you were allowed to have one book, this would be it. I call it an essential part of your mountaineering experience.

Available at Amazon.com

Navigation Aides and Accessories

Garmin eTrex Vista GPS

Well designed, easy to use basic GPS system. Works well on cloudy days, has some limitations under trees. Plenty of memory for waypoint and route storage. Easy to use interface with various Topo programs such as Topo.

Motorola Iridium 9500 Satellite Phone

I used my 9500 in several locations within the Continental US and have been very pleased with the performance. Since I use it only on longer event, I purchase 30 day phone cards which eliminates the monthly charges.

I use BlueCosmo to purchase pre-paid phone cards.

 

Suunto M-2D Locator Compass

Very durable, good basic compass. All you would need at a good price.

88x31 REI Logo
Item 408011

Avocet Vertech

The Best! My Avocet was purchased in 1998 and has served me very well all this years. The accuracy is unquestionable and their support go above and beyond what you might expect.

This system is smaller than most competing watches which wears very well especially when wearing coats.

Visit Avocet - Vertech II

Highgear AltiTech II

Excellent performance and good accuracy. Plenty of functions available for all ascent and descent needs.

The only fault I can find is the effective temperature range which is -4°f to 158°f. If you do any winter climbing, it goes well below -4°f. Although I have not seen performance degradation below that temperature, I am not sure if the altitude compensation for temperature is affected.

Highgear Summit

Similar to the AltiTech II shown above, only on your wrist.

The only fault I find is the size of the bezel. When wearing long sleeves, or coats, it is hard to get access to use.

   
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