Great Range
June 25, 2005

 
Date Hiked : June 25, 2005
Mountains Climbed : Mount Marcy
Mount Haystack
Basin Mountain
Saddleback Mountain
Weather : 80° - 90+° f
Trail Length : 21 Miles
Participants : Solo
  Photo Journal
   
 
The morning of June 25th was already approaching 80° at 4:30 am. I left the Garden Parking area and proceeded down the Phelps Trail toward Johns Brook Lodge. The trail here is mostly flat and today it was dry.

Arriving at the Johns Brook Lodge at 5:45 I stopped for a 10 minute break. Replenished my water supply and enjoyed a calm morning. Some movement could be heard from inside the lodge, otherwise it was a very quite moment.

Johns Brook Lodge lawn seating.

Leaving JBL, I continued following the Phelps Trail. The trail remained dry and dropped down to Johns Brook where it follows the river bank for about 100 yards.

The trail ascends down along Johns Brook where you rock hop approximately 100 feet. This is a view from the trail.

Turning back into the woods, you cross a small tributary and ascend a hogsback approximately 150 feet elevation gain. Trail continues and soon the split to Bushnell Falls appears. From this junction, turning left takes you down an embankment to the base of Bushnell Falls. Well worth the trip if you have not seen the falls before.

Remaining on Phelps Trail, the junction with Hopkins Trail is located about one minute past Bushnell Falls turn off. Phelps Trail splits left and Hopkins Trail splits right. Bushnell Falls Lean-to #1 is located on the Hopkins Trail about one minute past this junction.
 

Junction sign post for the Phelps Trail and the start of the Hopkins Trail.

Continuing on past the lean-to, the trail now ascends gradually through the forest crossing many streams. The trail is mostly dry and easy to navigate. Views of Marcy begin to come into view.

The Hopkins Trail ends when it joins with the Van Hoevenberg Trail.

Soon you arrive at the junction with the Van Hoevenberg trail and turning left, you start heading toward Mount Marcy. The trail is now mixed with dirt, rock hopping and smooth slabs.

Van Hoevenberg Trail worn down to the slab which ascends slightly.

Soon you pass through a lawn and the ridge line up Mount Marcy is now in front of you. There is a rock outcropping which provides a excellent spot to relax and take in the views.

The lawn along Van Hoevenberg Trail with views of Mount Marcy and a resting spot.

The junction with the Phelps Trail is found shortly after the lawn and the trail now heads right toward the ridge line. Breaking tree line, rock outcroppings can be seen marked with cairns to guide your way.

Rock scrambles on the final approach and the commemorative plaque on the summit.

Rock scrambles are mixed with smooth slab hiking. The final climb is on open trail above tree line for about 600 vertical feet. Soon you reach the summit zone where you will find a plaque dedicated in 1937 for the 100 year anniversary of the first recorded ascent in 1837.

After a brief stay on the summit, I now headed back down the route I used on approach. At the junction with the Van Hoevenberg and Phelps Trails, I turned right and continued down the Phelps Trail. Shortly I came upon the junction with the Range Trail which will take me toward the Great Range.
 

The rock scramble at the start of the Range Trail off the Phelps Trail.

Turning onto the Range Trail, you come upon a steep rock scramble. Reaching the top of the scramble views of Mount Haystack come into view.
 

The first views of Mount Haystack.

The trail continues up and over a shoulder and descends before reaching the base of Little Haystack. The trail toward Mount Haystack starts at the base of Little Haystack and almost immediately you scramble up steep rock that requires some hand holds.

Passing over Little Haystack, you descend steeply into the col re-entering scrub before encountering the final approach to Mount Haystack. Here I met Dave (Mountain Goat) whom I previously met on the Escarpment Trail in the Catskills. He was doing the full Great Range and by 11:00 this morning he had already completed everything between Roostercomb to Haystack. That's fast! This ascent is on open rock and slab face directly to the summit. The winds were really appreciated today as the temperature was now approaching 90°. After 20 minute rest period, it was now time to move onto Basin Mountain.
 

A view of Basin Mountain from Mount Haystack.

The trail toward Basin continues at the base of Little Haystack and descends steeply through the forest and reaches the junction with the Shorey Cutoff Trail. By this time, I am now filtering water to refill my diminishing supply. The heat of the day now in excess of 90° is starting to wear on my efforts.

I met another party of two doing the Great Range from Lower Wolfjaw to Marcy. I recognized one person, Jim, whom I met previously on a hike in the Catskill along the Escarpment Trail while doing a fund raiser for The Brain Tumor Society. We talked a few minutes and off we went.

The trail soon reaches the low point and begins its steep upward approach to Basin. There are ladders in place to assist in the most troubled spots, but the trail is in good condition and easy to navigate since it was so dry. On wet days, this approach can cause poor footing.

Reaching the summit of Basin is a welcome relief with the winds of the day not only cooling you off, but knocking the bugs away and providing you with a few minutes of peace to eat and relax.
 

Looking back at Mount Haystack from the summit on Basin.

Looking back at Mount Haystack, you can clearly see the route taken starting right of Little Haystack and descending along a small valley formed between Little Haystack and a small rise just right. It makes you appreciate the effort you have put into this trip.
 

Looking at Saddleback Mountain just before starting the descent off Basin Mountain. The trail to Saddleback passes over the false summit as seen here.

Leaving the summit of Basin, you first descend steeply and then ascend the false summit of Basin. The trail then takes a another steep descend into the col with Saddleback Mountain.

Looking at Saddleback from the false summit, you can now see the exposed rock face that must be negotiated. Leaving the false summit, you descend into the col and quickly you are looking up at what is ahead of you.
 

Looking up at Mount Haystack from the col. The steepness can not be appreciated in this image.

By this time, the heat of the day is starting to wear on me. Some cramping has occurred even though I am taking in water, consuming almost 4 liters, plus one liter of Gatorade.

Approaching the open rock face is done on a steep ascending trail. Reaching the rock face you must now navigate a section which requires hand holds and sheer strength to lift yourself up. Once over the first section, the trail continues up a exposed steep crack to the left of a rock outcropping. Walking the crack is done by jamming your boot into the crack and using your hands to maintain control.
 

The summit of Saddleback with Basin in view.

Once over this steep section, the summit is now in front of you. Along my trip today I made two new friends. One friend, Sean from Albany, I met on Mount Marcy and every summit along the way. No way was I going to keep up with a young buck like him. But somehow I talked with him on every summit.

On the ascent up Saddleback, I met another person from Hartford, CT. We worked our way up the exposed rock all the way to the summit. Unfortunately I did not write his name down.

After relaxing on the summit for a few minutes, I knew my day was now over. Originally I wanted to continue with the Great Range until Lower Wolfjaw, but the heat was working on me. The decision was made to head down the Ore Bed trail and back to the car awaiting me in the Garden Parking Lot.

The Ore Bed can be a troubling route to descend when you have wet conditions. However, today the heat of the day made the slabs very dry and was a good and safe route to descend.

Passing the slide off Armstrong, I am always amazed how nature takes over. The new growth has really begun to take over these past few years.
 

Looking up at slide off Armstrong. The new growth has really taken hold compared to just a couple of years ago when it was all exposed.

Soon I reached the Ore Bed lean-to and a short break. The bugs were now in a major offensive mood as evening approaches. Deet was almost ineffective by now.

Reaching the Johns Brook Lodge, I caught up with Sean. Took a short break, replenished my water supply and started cruising back to the Garden. I was re-energized by the days events and covered the 3.5 miles in just 66 minutes.

Today the full trip was 21 miles and excellent dry conditions. The heat was a little high for me. I would like to return to this hike again when the weather is cooler and then go for the full range.